Learning climbing technique Technique means how you move on the rock to get the best result. I think almost everyone who tries climbing can see that it’s really important. Most people understand it to mean ‘how to move efficiently’. That is correct, but good technique also means knowing how to make the most of your strengths and tactics. This is a general article, so I wont go into too much detail, only discuss how to go about learning technique (since most people don’t know or use the best ways). I’ll discuss the separate area of tactics in the next section. Stage 1 – Most people, like myself, are not naturally talented at climbing. That means we don’t ‘see’ what to do intuitively in our minds. We have to consciously learn from others as well as try hard to understand how our own bodies move. When untalented climbers put a lot of effort into these two aspects of learning technique, they can eventually climb like the talented. So, stage 1 is learning from others. Basically you have to spend time watching how better climbers move (as many as possible), try to understand what it is they are doing, and then attempt to do the same. There is one crucial additional rule to follow while you are doing it; you must believe you are capable of moving like them (because you are!). If you are thinking “they move well, but I could never do that” you might as well not bother trying to improve at climbing. Climbing walls and videos are great places to see good climbers in action. If you manage to find a regular climbing partner who is much better than you, this will be good news for your ability! At first it will be hard enough to try and understand how the best climbers move. Break their movements down – watch their foot work, watch how they get their balance before they move their foot, watch how they twist their body to get close to the rock and how much extra reach it gives. Watch how fast they climb, Where do they stop to chalk up and clip? Could you have predicted that from the ground? Watch how they get pumped and struggle but hang in there. Would you have said ‘take’? Watch them take a big fall. Did anything bad happen or did they just laugh and look relaxed? Next time you are running it out you could try to be this relaxed. Remember – if they can do it, you can too! You just have to practice and learn. Stage 2 - Once you start to understand techniques (this is a never ending process of course) you can begin to understand how your own body shape deals with moves best. What are your best assets? If you are stocky and powerful, you can use this to climb quickly and dynamically. If you are tall and thin, you can use this to stay low on the holds and reach the next one without using much power. This is complex stuff. The more moves/problems/routes you do the more you will understand it all. But you must concentrate while you climb. Sometimes this is hard if you are knackered from work or just out having a laugh at the crag with mates. Try to ‘switch on’ your concentration when you need to. Give each and every climb, even the last one before you hit the road, your very best attention. Technique training is not emotionally neutral. It is hard work just like pull-ups. If you put in effort, believe you can move well, and be hungry to learn how, each month you will climb better than the last. If you just climb and don’t think, you will still be wobbling on the same grade as today in 5 years time.
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