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The first in-depth book on tactics for redpoint and on-sight climbing, written by the authors of The Self-Coached Climber. The book covers in depth the concepts and practical training for preparing mentally, physically, and emotionally for flash and on-sight attempts and for the best ropework. Are tactics that much of an limitation for your performance? Damn right they are. Why is it that the basic levels of strength and the consistency of basic climbing technique has shot up with the explosion of climbing walls, yet the level of climbers hasn't risen at anything like the same rate, if at all? Basically, there is a generation of strong climbers who are missing so many of the tricks that turn potential (basic strength and movement skill) into results. If I were you, I'd read this one before the physical training books. Anyone can get stronger by pulling on small holds. But even the strong don't climb well if they don't learn to be performers on the rock.
Includes a 30 minute DVD where you can see many of the tactics and methods they discuss in the book.