I’m a professional all-round climber based in the highlands of Scotland. I’ve been climbing for 25 years and have climbed 8C boulders, 9a sport climbs, E11 trad, XII,12 mixed and 8b+ free solo. I’m best known for my first ascents of routes such as Rhapsody, the world’s first E11 trad route, Anubis VII,12 one of the world’s hardest mixed climbs and Echo Wall on Ben Nevis. As well as my FAs in Scotland, I’ve climbed numerous hard big walls around the world such as Project Fear (400m 8c) on the north face of Cima Ovest, Paciencia (900m 8a) Eiger North Face, Disco 2000 (400m 8a+, Blamman, Norway).
I’m also known for my writing on training and improvement in climbing. I hold an undergraduate degree in Sports Science and Physiology, an MSc in Sport and Exercise Science and am currently undertaking an MSc in Human Nutrition. I’ve been blogging and vlogging for 13 years and my two books 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes and Make or break are among the best selling titles worldwide on training and injury prevention in climbing. When I’m not climbing I spend my time studying and writing about sports science and nutrition, or with my wife Claire and daughter Freida. I occasionally make mountain films as well.
To keep up with what I’m writing or climbing, please do follow me on social media and subscribe to my newsletter in which I discuss interesting new science in climbing, training ideas and upcoming events.