I thought it was about time I made some videos related to your questions about climbing/training. I asked my supporters on Patreon for their questions and picked a few related ones to tackle first:

What would I change or revise in my book 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes?

How I organise and keep track of research?

How I deal with moderation and fuelling on high and low carb diets and the highs and lows of diet experiments?

Some controversial territory as expected. I’ve tried my best to tackle it head on in this episode. There were more questions of course, and I’ll put together some more episodes on them shortly. Thanks everyone for the support and happy new year.

Here is the first of several videos I’d like to make on supplements I don’t take and why. First up is collagen. I’ve seen sports nutritionists say that every climber should be taking it. In this video I take a look at the research and explain why I don’t.

Below are the references from the video:

1.         Thompson, J.C., et al., Origins of the Human Predatory Pattern: The Transition to Large-Animal Exploitation by Early Hominins. Current Anthropology, 2019. 60(1): p. 1-23.

2.         Blasco, R., et al., Bone marrow storage and delayed consumption at Middle Pleistocene Qesem Cave, Israel (420 to 200 ka). Science Advances, 2019. 5(10): p. eaav9822.

3.         Stefansson, V., The Fat of the Land. 2016: Youcanprint.

4.         Meléndez-Hevia, E., et al., A weak link in metabolism: the metabolic capacity for glycine biosynthesis does not satisfy the need for collagen synthesis. J Biosci, 2009. 34(6): p. 853-72.

5.         Montagna, C., et al., Autophagy guards tendon homeostasis. Cell Death Dis, 2022. 13(4): p. 402.

6.         Yeung, C.-Y.C., et al., Disruption of day-to-night changes in circadian gene expression with chronic tendinopathy. The Journal of Physiology, 2023. n/a(n/a).

7.         Gersovitz, M., et al., Dynamic aspects of whole body glycine metabolism: influence of protein intake in young adult and elderly males. Metabolism, 1980. 29(11): p. 1087-94.

8.         Gibson, N.R., et al., Endogenous glycine and tyrosine production is maintained in adults consuming a marginal-protein diet. Am J Clin Nutr, 2002. 75(3): p. 511-8.

9.         Shaw, G., et al., Vitamin C-enriched gelatin supplementation before intermittent activity augments collagen synthesis. Am J Clin Nutr, 2017. 105(1): p. 136-143.

10.       Praet, S.F.E., et al., Oral Supplementation of Specific Collagen Peptides Combined with Calf-Strengthening Exercises Enhances Function and Reduces Pain in Achilles Tendinopathy Patients. Nutrients, 2019. 11(1).

11.       Jerger, S., et al., Specific collagen peptides increase adaptions of patellar tendon morphology following 14-weeks of high-load resistance training: A randomized-controlled trial. European Journal of Sport Science, 2023: p. 1-11.

12.       Balshaw, T., et al., The Effect of Specific Bioactive Collagen Peptides on Tendon Remodelling during 15 Weeks of Lower Body Resistance Training. Medicine and science in sports and exercise, 2023.

13.       Lee, J., et al., Collagen supplementation augments changes in patellar tendon properties in female soccer players. Front Physiol, 2023. 14: p. 1089971.

14.       Aussieker, T., et al., Collagen Protein Ingestion during Recovery from Exercise Does Not Increase Muscle Connective Protein Synthesis Rates. Med Sci Sports Exerc, 2023. 55(10): p. 1792-1802.

15.       Hijlkema, A., et al., The impact of nutrition on tendon health and tendinopathy: a systematic review. J Int Soc Sports Nutr, 2022. 19(1): p. 474-504.

16.       Holwerda, A.M. and L.J.C. van Loon, The impact of collagen protein ingestion on musculoskeletal connective tissue remodeling: a narrative review. Nutrition Reviews, 2022. 80(6): p. 1497-1514.

17.       Farup, J., et al., Whey protein hydrolysate augments tendon and muscle hypertrophy independent of resistance exercise contraction mode. Scand J Med Sci Sports, 2014. 24(5): p. 788-98.

18.       Lis, D.M. and K. Baar, Effects of Different Vitamin C–Enriched Collagen Derivatives on Collagen Synthesis.International Journal of Sport Nutrition and Exercise Metabolism, 2019. 29(5): p. 526-531.

My annoying tennis elbow improved enough to start bouldering regularly again a month ago. Since then I feel like its stronger every session. A good feeling. In this session I keep on with working through the established problems on my board, building up to starting on the projects. At the end I’m getting close to my Pjs on the fingerboard, which is kind of surprising to me, but great! I also go through some of your questions about training from my last full session vlog episode. If you have more, leave a comment here on my YouTube.

BTW Did you subscribe to my YouTube channel yet? Lots more videos sharing climbing, training, nutrition and nice routes and mountains coming in 2022.

The ketogenic diet had a large impact on my life and my climbing. Here is a detailed discussion of 6 years of my own experiences with the keto diet for sport performance as a pro rock climber, with references to 150 scientific papers on the performance, health and other effects of the diet. You can find all the references below.

I’ve also published an audio version of the piece on my Patreon page as a thanks to my Patreon supporters. I thought that might be useful for folk to listen to it on the move since it’s a long and detailed piece.

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88. Seidelmann, S.B., et al., Dietary carbohydrate intake and mortality: a prospective cohort study and meta-analysis. The Lancet Public Health, 2018. 3(9): p. e419-e428. http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S246826671830135X

https://www.thelancet.com/pdfs/journals/lanpub/PIIS2468-2667(18)30135-X.pdf

89. Lagiou, P., et al., Low carbohydrate-high protein diet and mortality in a cohort of Swedish women. J Intern Med, 2007. 261(4): p. 366-74. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17391111/

90. Trichopoulou, A., et al., Low-carbohydrate-high-protein diet and long-term survival in a general population cohort. Eur J Clin Nutr, 2007. 61(5): p. 575-81. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17136037/

91. Fung, T.T., et al., Low-carbohydrate diets and all-cause and cause-specific mortality: two cohort studies. Ann Intern Med, 2010. 153(5): p. 289-98. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/20820038/

92. Nilsson, L.M., et al., Low-carbohydrate, high-protein score and mortality in a northern Swedish population-based cohort. Eur J Clin Nutr, 2012. 66(6): p. 694-700. https://www.nature.com/articles/ejcn20129.pdf

93. Johnston, B.C., et al., Comparison of Weight Loss Among Named Diet Programs in Overweight and Obese Adults: A Meta-analysis. JAMA, 2014. 312(9): p. 923-933. https://doi.org/10.1001/jama.2014.10397

94. Buga, A., et al., Extended Ketogenic Diet and Physical Training Intervention in Military Personnel. Military Medicine, 2019. 184(9-10): p. e538-e547. https://dx.doi.org/10.1093/milmed/usz046

95. Chawla, S., et al., The Effect of Low-Fat and Low-Carbohydrate Diets on Weight Loss and Lipid Levels: A Systematic Review and Meta-Analysis. Nutrients, 2020. 12(12). https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/33317019/

96. Falkenhain, K., et al., Keyto App and Device versus WW App on Weight Loss and Metabolic Risk in Adults with Overweight or Obesity: A Randomized Trial. Obesity, 2021. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/34124856/

97. Aamodt, S., Why Diets Make Us Fat: The Unintended Consequences of Our Obsession with Weight Loss. 2016. 204. https://amzn.to/3CptAFM

98. Fothergill, E., et al., Persistent metabolic adaptation 6 years after "The Biggest Loser" competition. Obesity (Silver Spring), 2016. 24(8): p. 1612-9. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/27136388/

99. McKenzie, A.L., et al., Type 2 Diabetes Prevention Focused on Normalization of Glycemia: A Two-Year Pilot Study. Nutrients, 2021. 13(3): p. 749. https://www.mdpi.com/2072-6643/13/3/749

100. Murphy, N.E., C.T. Carrigan, and L.M. Margolis, High-Fat Ketogenic Diets and Physical Performance: A Systematic Review. Advances in Nutrition, 2020. https://doi.org/10.1093/advances/nmaa101

101. Gardner, C.D., et al., Effect of Low-Fat vs Low-Carbohydrate Diet on 12-Month Weight Loss in Overweight Adults and the Association With Genotype Pattern or Insulin Secretion: The DIETFITS Randomized Clinical Trial.JAMA, 2018. 319(7): p. 667-679. https://doi.org/10.1001/jama.2018.0245

102. Ludwig, D.S., et al., The carbohydrate-insulin model: a physiological perspective on the obesity pandemic.The American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, 2021. https://doi.org/10.1093/ajcn/nqab270

103. Aronica, L., et al., Examining differences between overweight women and men in 12-month weight loss study comparing healthy low-carbohydrate vs. low-fat diets. International Journal of Obesity, 2020. https://doi.org/10.1038/s41366-020-00708-y

104. Lindeberg, S., et al., Age relations of cardiovascular risk factors in a traditional Melanesian society: the Kitava Study. The American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, 1997. 66(4): p. 845-852. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/9322559/

105. Lindeberg, S., et al., Low serum insulin in traditional Pacific Islanders--the Kitava Study. Metabolism, 1999. 48(10): p. 1216-9. https://www.metabolismjournal.com/article/S0026-0495(99)90258-5/pdf

106. Sacks, F.M., et al., Dietary Fats and Cardiovascular Disease: A Presidential Advisory From the American Heart Association. Circulation, 2017. 136(3): p. e1-e23. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28620111/

107. Blasbalg, T.L., et al., Changes in consumption of omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids in the United States during the 20th century. Am J Clin Nutr, 2011. 93(5): p. 950-62. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21367944/

108. Alvheim, A.R., et al., Dietary linoleic acid elevates endogenous 2-arachidonoylglycerol and anandamide in Atlantic salmon (Salmo salar L.) and mice, and induces weight gain and inflammation in mice. Br J Nutr, 2013. 109(8): p. 1508-17. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/22883314/

109. Alvheim, A.R., et al., Dietary linoleic acid elevates the endocannabinoids 2-AG and anandamide and promotes weight gain in mice fed a low fat diet. Lipids, 2014. 49(1): p. 59-69. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/24081493/

110. Desmarchelier, C., et al., Diet-induced obesity in ad libitum-fed mice: food texture overrides the effect of macronutrient composition. British Journal of Nutrition, 2013. 109(8): p. 1518-1527. https://www.cambridge.org/core/article/dietinduced-obesity-in-ad-libitumfed-mice-food-texture-overrides-the-effect-of-macronutrient-composition/725D71275CF7399332CEC8C9C76BE23F

111. Hall, K.D., et al., Ultra-Processed Diets Cause Excess Calorie Intake and Weight Gain: An Inpatient Randomized Controlled Trial of Ad Libitum Food Intake. Cell Metab, 2019. 30(1): p. 67-77.e3. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/31105044/

112. Heaton, K.W., et al., Particle size of wheat, maize, and oat test meals: effects on plasma glucose and insulin responses and on the rate of starch digestion in vitro. The American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, 1988. 47(4): p. 675-682. https://doi.org/10.1093/ajcn/47.4.675

113. Juntunen, K.S., et al., Postprandial glucose, insulin, and incretin responses to grain products in healthy subjects. The American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, 2002. 75(2): p. 254-262. https://doi.org/10.1093/ajcn/75.2.254

114. Juntunen, K.S., et al., Structural differences between rye and wheat breads but not total fiber content may explain the lower postprandial insulin response to rye bread. The American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, 2003. 78(5): p. 957-964. https://doi.org/10.1093/ajcn/78.5.957

115. Sumithran, P., et al., Ketosis and appetite-mediating nutrients and hormones after weight loss. Eur J Clin Nutr, 2013. 67(7): p. 759-64. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23632752

116. Phinney, S.D., et al., The human metabolic response to chronic ketosis without caloric restriction: preservation of submaximal exercise capability with reduced carbohydrate oxidation. Metabolism, 1983. 32(8): p. 769-76. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/6865776/

117. Hill, J.C. and I.S. Millan, Validation of musculoskeletal ultrasound to assess and quantify muscle glycogen content. A novel approach. Phys Sportsmed, 2014. 42(3): p. 45-52. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25295766/

118. Greene, J., et al., State-of-the-Art Methods for Skeletal Muscle Glycogen Analysis in Athletes - The Need for Novel Non-Invasive Techniques. Biosensors, 2017. 7. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/28241495

119. Hettinga, F.J., A.M. Edwards, and B. Hanley, The Science Behind Competition and Winning in Athletics: Using World-Level Competition Data to Explore Pacing and Tactics. Frontiers in Sports and Active Living, 2019. 1(11). https://www.frontiersin.org/article/10.3389/fspor.2019.00011

120. Burke, L.M., Re-Examining High-Fat Diets for Sports Performance: Did We Call the 'Nail in the Coffin' Too Soon? Sports Med, 2015. 45 Suppl 1(Suppl 1): p. S33-49. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26553488/

121. Stellingwerff, T., et al., Decreased PDH activation and glycogenolysis during exercise following fat adaptation with carbohydrate restoration. American Journal of Physiology - Endocrinology And Metabolism, 2006. 290(2): p. 380-388. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/16188909/

122. Peters, S.J., Regulation of PDH activity and isoform expression: diet and exercise. Biochemical Society Transactions, 2003. 31(6): p. 1274-1280. http://www.biochemsoctrans.org/content/ppbiost/31/6/1274.full.pdf

123. Wood, T., Lost Metabolic Machinery During Ketosis? Depends Where You Are Looking. Strength & Conditioning Journal, 2017. 39(5). https://journals.lww.com/nsca-scj/Fulltext/2017/10000/Lost_Metabolic_Machinery_During_Ketosis__Depends.13.aspx

124. Burke, L.M., et al., Low carbohydrate, high fat diet impairs exercise economy and negates the performance benefit from intensified training in elite race walkers. J Physiol, 2017. 595(9): p. 2785-2807. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28012184/

125. Shaw, D.M., et al., Effect of a Ketogenic Diet on Submaximal Exercise Capacity and Efficiency in Runners.Med Sci Sports Exerc, 2019. 51(10): p. 2135-2146. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/31033901/

126. Burke, L.M., et al., Crisis of confidence averted: Impairment of exercise economy and performance in elite race walkers by ketogenic low carbohydrate, high fat (LCHF) diet is reproducible. PLoS One, 2020. 15(6): p. e0234027. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/32497061/

127. Burke, L.M. and J.A. Hawley, Swifter, higher, stronger: What’s on the menu? Science, 2018. 362(6416): p. 781. http://science.sciencemag.org/content/362/6416/781.abstract

128. Miller, V.J., et al., A ketogenic diet combined with exercise alters mitochondrial function in human skeletal muscle while improving metabolic health. American Journal of Physiology-Endocrinology and Metabolism, 2020. https://doi.org/10.1152/ajpendo.00305.2020

129. Lane, N., A unifying view of ageing and disease: The double-agent theory. Journal of theoretical biology, 2004. 225: p. 531-40. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/14615212/

130. Miller, V.J., F.A. Villamena, and J.S. Volek, Nutritional Ketosis and Mitohormesis: Potential Implications for Mitochondrial Function and Human Health. Journal of nutrition and metabolism, 2018. 2018: p. 5157645-5157645. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29607218

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5828461/

131. San-Millán, I. and G.A. Brooks, Assessment of Metabolic Flexibility by Means of Measuring Blood Lactate, Fat, and Carbohydrate Oxidation Responses to Exercise in Professional Endurance Athletes and Less-Fit Individuals.Sports Medicine, 2018. 48(2): p. 467-479. https://doi.org/10.1007/s40279-017-0751-x

132. Cipryan, L., et al., Effects of a 4-Week Very Low-Carbohydrate Diet on High-Intensity Interval Training Responses. Journal of Sports Science & Medicine, 2018. 17(2): p. 259-268. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/29769827

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/PMC5950743/

133. Prins, P.J., et al., High Rates of Fat Oxidation Induced by a Low-Carbohydrate, High-Fat Diet, Do Not Impair 5-km Running Performance in Competitive Recreational Athletes. J Sports Sci Med, 2019. 18(4): p. 738-750. 

134. McSwiney, F.T., et al., Keto-adaptation enhances exercise performance and body composition responses to training in endurance athletes. Metabolism, 2018. 81: p. 25-34. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29208366/

135. Mirtschin, J.G., et al., Organization of Dietary Control for Nutrition-Training Intervention Involving Periodized Carbohydrate Availability and Ketogenic Low-Carbohydrate High-Fat Diet. International Journal of Sport Nutrition and Exercise Metabolism, 2018. 28(5): p. 480-489. https://journals.humankinetics.com/view/journals/ijsnem/28/5/article-p480.xml

136. Dostal, T., et al., Effects of a 12-Week Very-Low Carbohydrate High-Fat Diet on Maximal Aerobic Capacity, High-Intensity Intermittent Exercise, and Cardiac Autonomic Regulation: Non-randomized Parallel-Group Study.Frontiers in Physiology, 2019. 10(912). https://www.frontiersin.org/article/10.3389/fphys.2019.00912

137. Volek, J.S., et al., Metabolic characteristics of keto-adapted ultra-endurance runners. Metabolism, 2016. 65(3): p. 100-110. http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0026049515003340

138. Areta, J.L. and W.G. Hopkins, Skeletal Muscle Glycogen Content at Rest and During Endurance Exercise in Humans: A Meta-Analysis. Sports Med, 2018. 48(9): p. 2091-2102. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29923148/

139. Brooks, G.A., The Science and Translation of Lactate Shuttle Theory. Cell Metab, 2018. 27(4): p. 757-785. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29617642/

140. Greene, D.A., et al., A Low-Carbohydrate Ketogenic Diet Reduces Body Mass Without Compromising Performance in Powerlifting and Olympic Weightlifting Athletes. J Strength Cond Res, 2018. 32(12): p. 3373-3382. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/30335720/

141. Hetlelid, K.J., et al., Rethinking the role of fat oxidation: substrate utilisation during high-intensity interval training in well-trained and recreationally trained runners. BMJ Open Sport & Exercise Medicine, 2015. 1(1). http://bmjopensem.bmj.com/content/1/1/e000047.abstract

142. Cahill, G.F., Jr., Fuel metabolism in starvation. Annu Rev Nutr, 2006. 26: p. 1-22. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/16848698/

143. Cox, P., et al., Nutritional Ketosis Alters Fuel Preference and Thereby Endurance Performance in Athletes. Cell Metabolism, 2016. 24. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/27475046/

144. Sherman, W.M., et al., Effect of exercise-diet manipulation on muscle glycogen and its subsequent utilization during performance. Int J Sports Med, 1981. 2(2): p. 114-8. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/7333741/

145. MacLeod, D., et al., Physiological determinants of climbing-specific finger endurance and sport rock climbing performance. J Sports Sci, 2007. 25(12): p. 1433-43. 

146. Ortega, J.O., et al., Muscle force, work and cost: a novel technique to revisit the Fenn effect. J Exp Biol, 2015. 218(Pt 13): p. 2075-82. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25964423/

147. Hargreaves, M. and L.L. Spriet, Skeletal muscle energy metabolism during exercise. Nature Metabolism, 2020. https://doi.org/10.1038/s42255-020-0251-4

148. Baker, J.S., M.C. McCormick, and R.A. Robergs, Interaction among Skeletal Muscle Metabolic Energy Systems during Intense Exercise. Journal of nutrition and metabolism, 2010. 2010: p. 905612-905612. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21188163

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3005844/

149. Newcomer, B.R., M.D. Boska, and H.P. Hetherington, Non-Pi buffer capacity and Initial phosphocreatine breakdown and resynthesis kinetics of human gastrocnemius/soleus muscle groups using 0.5 s time-resolved 31P MRS at 4.1 T. NMR in Biomedicine, 1999. 12(8): p. 545-551. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/10668047/

150. Artioli, G.G., et al., Determining the contribution of the energy systems during exercise. J Vis Exp, 2012(61). https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/22453254/

I did an interview with Steven for The Nugget climbing podcast here. We had a long discussion of many climbing related topics including fingerboarding and training in general, nutrition and use of keto, carnivore and other diets, navigating research in general, my own climbing progression and key things I did to advance it as well as various other things. Steven is releasing it in two parts so do check back for the second part in a week.

My research questionnaire: https://glasgow-research.onlinesurveys.ac.uk/dietary-patterns-of-rock-climbers THANK YOU so much for your time to participate. Note that the questionnaire will only be live for a short time in July 2020.

In the video I above I discuss some thoughts on my own study of nutrition over the past few years and the research I’m currently doing. To complete the research I need your help and I’m asking climbers over 16 who climb regularly to complete a questionnaire about their diet.

The speech by Austin Bradford Hill I mentioned in the post is here:

HILL, A. B. 1965. THE ENVIRONMENT AND DISEASE: ASSOCIATION OR CAUSATION? Proceedings of the Royal Society of Medicine, 58, 295-300. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/14283879/

More information about how to participate in the brief video below:

I’ve been visiting this great boulder on and off over the past few weeks. Yesterday I put up a really nice new 8A, despite struggling a bit to get it in climbable condition recently. Well, that, and I couldn’t actually climb it. I’ve been trying a much harder project going straight up from the same start. Its a really good line and worth persisting with. At present I cannot do one move even after about four sessions on it. But I am getting closer. One thing is for sure, I’ll not get closer to unlocking it if I don’t show up and try. That is the subject of the vlog episode above (Vlog #42).

My blogging frequency has dropped a bit of late since I have been back at university studying lately. Although actually the main sink on my time has been a he task I’ve been putting off for over two years. I’ve been gathering scientific papers related to nutrition for four years now. There are nearly 2000 in my library at this point. I’ve avoided the hard labour of sorting them into buckets so I can easily make sense of them. But I’m attacking that task now. It will take me ages! But there is no short cutting it, and it will be worth it in the end.

Many of you have emailed me over the past week to ask what I think of a big budget movie just released on Netflix called The Game Changers. The movie promotes the idea that a plant-based diet will be beneficial for health and sport performance. It also suggests that eating meat will have the opposite effect. In this episode (Vlog #31), I watch the movie and offer some quick thoughts on its content and a look at some of the evidence presented in the film. Below is a list of references I discuss in the episode. I encourage you to read all of them, not just take either the Game Changers, or my own views at face value.

1. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/31569235 Johnston, B. C., Zeraatkar, D., Han, M. A., Vernooij, R. W. M., Valli, C., El Dib, R., Marshall, C., Stover, P. J., Fairweather-Taitt, S., Wójcik, G., Bhatia, F., de Souza, R., Brotons, C., Meerpohl, J. J., Patel, C. J., Djulbegovic, B., Alonso-Coello, P., Bala, M. M. & Guyatt, G. H. 2019. Unprocessed Red Meat and Processed Meat Consumption: Dietary Guideline Recommendations From the Nutritional Recommendations (NutriRECS) Consortium. Annals of Internal Medicine.

2. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/31622423 Händel, M. N., Cardoso, I., Rasmussen, K. M., Rohde, J. F., Jacobsen, R., Nielsen, S. M., Christensen, R. & Heitmann, B. L. 2019. Processed meat intake and chronic disease morbidity and mortality: An overview of systematic reviews and meta-analyses. PLOS ONE, 14, e0223883.

3. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/1973470 Ornish, D., Brown, S. E., Scherwitz, L. W., Billings, J. H., Armstrong, W. T., Ports, T. A., McLanahan, S. M., Kirkeeide, R. L., Brand, R. J. & Gould, K. L. 1990. Can lifestyle changes reverse coronary heart disease? The Lifestyle Heart Trial. Lancet, 336, 129-33.

4. https://archive.archaeology.org/0811/abstracts/gladiator.html 

5. https://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371/journal.pone.0110489 Lösch, S., Moghaddam, N., Grossschmidt, K., Risser, D. U. & Kanz, F. 2014. Stable Isotope and Trace Element Studies on Gladiators and Contemporary Romans from Ephesus (Turkey, 2nd and 3rd Ct. AD) - Implications for Differences in Diet. PLOS ONE, 9, e110489.

6. https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2014/10/141020090006.htm 

7. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23988511 Rizzo, N. S., Jaceldo-Siegl, K., Sabate, J. & Fraser, G. E. 2013. Nutrient profiles of vegetarian and nonvegetarian dietary patterns. Journal of the Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics, 113, 1610-1619.

8. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/28534027 Phillips, S. M. 2017. Current Concepts and Unresolved Questions in Dietary Protein Requirements and Supplements in Adults. Front Nutr, 4, 13.

9. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/10584048 Campbell, W. W., Barton, M. L., Jr., Cyr-Campbell, D., Davey, S. L., Beard, J. L., Parise, G. & Evans, W. J. 1999. Effects of an omnivorous diet compared with a lactoovovegetarian diet on resistance-training-induced changes in body composition and skeletal muscle in older men. Am J Clin Nutr, 70, 1032-9.

10. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/17684208 Hartman, J. W., Tang, J. E., Wilkinson, S. B., Tarnopolsky, M. A., Lawrence, R. L., Fullerton, A. V. & Phillips, S. M. 2007. Consumption of fat-free fluid milk after resistance exercise promotes greater lean mass accretion than does consumption of soy or carbohydrate in young, novice, male weightlifters. Am J Clin Nutr, 86, 373-81.

11. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1323303/ Volek, J. S. & Feinman, R. D. 2005. Carbohydrate restriction improves the features of Metabolic Syndrome. Metabolic Syndrome may be defined by the response to carbohydrate restriction. Nutrition & Metabolism, 2, 31.

12. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/18396172 Volek, J. S., Fernandez, M. L., Feinman, R. D. & Phinney, S. D. 2008. Dietary carbohydrate restriction induces a unique metabolic state positively affecting atherogenic dyslipidemia, fatty acid partitioning, and metabolic syndrome. Progress in Lipid Research, 47, 307-318.

13. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16443784 Nieuwdorp 2006 Glycocalyx  Nieuwdorp, M., van Haeften, T. W., Gouverneur, M. C. L. G., Mooij, H. L., van Lieshout, M. H. P., Levi, M., Meijers, J. C. M., Holleman, F., Hoekstra, J. B. L., Vink, H., Kastelein, J. J. P. & Stroes, E. S. G. 2006. Loss of Endothelial Glycocalyx During Acute Hyperglycemia Coincides With Endothelial Dysfunction and Coagulation Activation In Vivo. Diabetes, 55, 480.

14. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2352199/ Key, T. J., Thorogood, M., Appleby, P. N. & Burr, M. L. 1996. Dietary habits and mortality in 11,000 vegetarians and health conscious people: results of a 17 year follow up. BMJ (Clinical research ed.), 313, 775-779.

15. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/29674591 Smith, F. A., Elliott Smith, R. E., Lyons, S. K. & Payne, J. L. 2018. Body size downgrading of mammals over the late Quaternary. Science, 360, 310.

16. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/amp/world-latin-america-50330717

17. https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1040618215011829 Wißing, C., Rougier, H., Crevecoeur, I., Germonpré, M., Naito, Y. I., Semal, P. & Bocherens, H. 2016. Isotopic evidence for dietary ecology of late Neandertals in North-Western Europe. Quaternary International, 411, 327-345.

18. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24694282 Helander, H. F. & Fändriks, L. 2014. Surface area of the digestive tract – revisited. Scandinavian Journal of Gastroenterology, 49, 681-689.

19. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4844163/ Sobiecki, J. G., Appleby, P. N., Bradbury, K. E. & Key, T. J. 2016. High compliance with dietary recommendations in a cohort of meat eaters, fish eaters, vegetarians, and vegans: results from the European Prospective Investigation into Cancer and Nutrition-Oxford study. Nutr Res, 36, 464-77.

20. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23183299 Carpenter, K. J. 2012. The discovery of vitamin C. Ann Nutr Metab, 61, 259-64.

21. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16848698 Cahill, G. F., Jr. 2006. Fuel metabolism in starvation. Annu Rev Nutr, 26, 1-22.

22. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/5056667 Drenick, E. J., Alvarez, L. C., Tamasi, G. C. & Brickman, A. S. 1972. Resistance to symptomatic insulin reactions after fasting. The Journal of clinical investigation, 51, 2757-2762.

23. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/9311957  Popovich, D. G., Jenkins, D. J., Kendall, C. W., Dierenfeld, E. S., Carroll, R. W., Tariq, N. & Vidgen, E. 1997. The western lowland gorilla diet has implications for the health of humans and other hominoids. J Nutr, 127, 2000-5.

24. https://journals.lww.com/nutritiontodayonline/Fulltext/2018/07000/ Assessing_the_Role_of_Cattle_in_Sustainable_Food.5.aspx#pdf-link Layman, D. K. 2018. Assessing the Role of Cattle in Sustainable Food Systems. 53, 160-165.

25. https://www.biogeosciences.net/16/3033/2019/ Howarth, R. W. 2019. Ideas and perspectives: is shale gas a major driver of recent increase in global atmospheric methane? Biogeosciences, 16, 3033-3046.

26. http://benhunt.com/vegan-youtuber-fail-leaderboard/ 

In 2007 I gave up on the idea of climbing Hunger, 9a. Over ten years later, I returned as a better climber and finished the job. But not without a carefully planned and executed preparation.

Celebrating a send with junk never seemed to work for me. I go through what I do instead. The original blog post that inspired this episode from 2009.

Vlog #19 Elbow Tendonosis, Golfer's Elbow, is a very common injury among climbers. In this episode, I go through ten ways you can both prevent and/or treat this very troublesome condition. I suffered with Golfer's and Tennis elbow for many years before finally resolving it completely three years ago.

A few weeks ago, Ally Houston of the Paleo Canteen Podcast interviewed me. The podcast focuses on guest’s attitudes to food and diet. I spoke about my experiments with various diets and their effects on my climbing and various aspects of my health. Given that Paleo Canteen is based in Glasgow, the city in which both myself and the hosts grew up, we also talked about what it’s like to grow up in Glasgow’s food environment. If you like the podcast you’ll find all the episodes here. I also mentioned the study I published in the Journal of Sport Sciences several years ago. You’ll find that paper here.

If you listen right through, you’ll see that we go into some themes around carbohydrate dosing/restriction in sport training and performance. I give a casual discussion of some of the scientific evidence in this area of physiology research. I get a lot of questions about this. I will soon (I’m not sure exactly when I’ll get it finished) post up a long vlog + blog going into some detail about the evidence along with some speculation on how it may be applied to climbing.