Posts in training for climbing
Is Mike Boyd ready to lead trad?

It has been a while since I’ve made a how to climb trad video. I think what the series really needed next was a collaboration with someone learning to lead. Mike Boyd had done a short lead on gritstone before, but is still very much in the early stages of his climbing. We met up at Polney Crag and had a great day climbing and the video was a good opportunity to highlight the key aspect that holds most new trad leaders back: solid and consistent movement technique.

beginners, Trad clilmbing, trad climbing, training for climbing, vlogsDave MacLeodtrad climbing, climbing techniqueComment
Training with a finger injury

A few weeks ago I picked up a mild A2 pulley injury in my finger. As many of you know, I wrote a whole chapter in Make or Break about finger injuries, but I thought I would make an episode showing you how I work around it to keep training despite the finger injury. Obviously, copying exactly what I do here is not the objective - every injury is different. It's about the general principle of working around injuries and how you might go about that. I hope it comes across in the episode that finding workarounds allows you to stay in better shape and remove a lot of the psychological pain of getting injured. I’ll make another video further down the recovery process, and if you have questions, do leave a comment and I’ll try and address them.

injuries, Make or Break, training, training for climbing, vlogsDave MacLeodinjuries, climbing injuries, training for climbingComment
Caitlin Connor - Ice competitor

A film I made over on the Fort William Mountain Festival channel about Caitlin Connor - an ice comp and dry tooling specialist. It was pretty tough to film this and not join in with the training! Caitlin received the Youth Award for Excellence in Mountain Culture this year. If you would like to nominate a young person making an important contribution in the mountains for this award, you can do so here.

drytooling, dry tool comp, FWMF, ice climbing, our films, training for climbingDave MacLeodFort William Mountain Festival, our filmsComment
Advice I would change in 9 out of 10 climbers

I thought it was about time I made some videos related to your questions about climbing/training. I asked my supporters on Patreon for their questions and picked a few related ones to tackle first:

What would I change or revise in my book 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes?

How I organise and keep track of research?

How I deal with moderation and fuelling on high and low carb diets and the highs and lows of diet experiments?

Some controversial territory as expected. I’ve tried my best to tackle it head on in this episode. There were more questions of course, and I’ll put together some more episodes on them shortly. Thanks everyone for the support and happy new year.

9 out of 10 climbers, diet experiments, carnivore diet, nutrition, vlogs, training for climbingDave MacLeodnutrition, keto diet, ketogenic diet, 9 out of 10 climbersComment
My endurance training for Rhapsody E11 7a

Planning endurance training, like any other aspect of physical training demands that you consider basic physiology, individual characteristics, resources available and the demands of the task you are training for. With all this considered, precise prescriptions are not always possible. In the main, I try to err on the side of identifying key priorities and arranging things to make sure those are well covered. My routine when I was training for Rhapsody was one of the simplest plans I’ve ever followed and was also a time in my climbing when I made some of the most sustained progress (excluding ‘noob gains’ as a beginner). In this video I describe what I did and possible reasons why it worked so well.

E11 trad, Trad clilmbing, training for climbing, training, vlogsDave MacLeodE11 trad, training for climbing, training, endurance trainingComment
How to gain confidence as a trad leader

In the spring, we have to get our leading head back on. Depending on how you choose your routes, mileage can either train or detrain your confidence. In this video, I take you through how I choose climbs that get me ready for bigger leads as the season progresses.

free solo, mental skills, mental training, our films, Trad clilmbing, trad climbing, technique training, training, training for climbing, vlogsDave MacLeodtraining for climbing, trad climbing, mental skills, mental trainingComment
You may not even know this is holding back your climbing

Many climbers are unaware just how much their ability to swap feet efficiently is holding them back. Poor technique tends to make climbers search for alternatives, which usually make climbs a lot harder. In this video I go through the handful of things you need to know to swap feet accurately and extremely consistently.

technique training, training for climbing, vlogsDave MacLeodclimbing technique, vlogs, training for climbingComment
Hangboard 30 min follow along

I made a follow along hang board workout, 30 minutes long and pitched for beginner/intermediate climbers (two handed hangs). In the rests in between the hangs I discuss various aspects of adjusting the hang board loading depending on your level and climbing goals. Enjoy the workout!

This is very similar to the basic workout I used when I started fingerboarding and went from 8b+ to 9a in a couple of years.

Edge hangboards, fingerboard, hangboards, training, training for climbingDave MacLeodtraining for climbing, training, hangboards Comment
Can you quantify climbing technique?

Coaches and sport scientists are often trying to quantify aspects of sport and there’s good reasons for this. But climbing technique is hopelessly complex with endless variation in movement. How could we go about quantifying it, or even thinking about it in any kind of structured manner? With difficulty. In this video I introduce some simple ideas for the way I think about technique that helps me to learn it and monitor my learning.

training, training for climbing, vlogsDave MacLeodtraining for climbing, training, climbing technique, vlogsComment
How strong am I really?

Maddy and Ollie at Lattice Training recently invited me to their HQ in Chesterfield for their finger strength and endurance testing protocol. It was fun and interesting to see how I compare to their ever growing database of high level climbers for these basic measures of strength and endurance. As you can see in the video, it yielded a couple of surprising results for me and a little food for thought for my general approach to climbing goals in the future.

fingerboard, hangboards, training, training for climbing, vlogsDave MacLeodtraining for climbing, training, fingerboard, hangboardsComment
Fast recovery from my elbow injury

My annoying tennis elbow improved enough to start bouldering regularly again a month ago. Since then I feel like its stronger every session. A good feeling. In this session I keep on with working through the established problems on my board, building up to starting on the projects. At the end I’m getting close to my Pjs on the fingerboard, which is kind of surprising to me, but great! I also go through some of your questions about training from my last full session vlog episode. If you have more, leave a comment here on my YouTube.

BTW Did you subscribe to my YouTube channel yet? Lots more videos sharing climbing, training, nutrition and nice routes and mountains coming in 2022.

bouldering, Edge hangboards, fingerboard, hangboards, injuries, motivation, nutrition, training for climbing, trainingDave MacLeodtraining, training for climbing, bouldering, injuries, climbing injuries Comments
The ketogenic diet in sport performance - 6 years of experiments and scientific evidence

The ketogenic diet had a large impact on my life and my climbing. Here is a detailed discussion of 6 years of my own experiences with the keto diet for sport performance as a pro rock climber, with references to 150 scientific papers on the performance, health and other effects of the diet. You can find all the references below.

I’ve also published an audio version of the piece on my Patreon page as a thanks to my Patreon supporters. I thought that might be useful for folk to listen to it on the move since it’s a long and detailed piece.

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