I made a follow along hang board workout, 30 minutes long and pitched for beginner/intermediate climbers (two handed hangs). In the rests in between the hangs I discuss various aspects of adjusting the hang board loading depending on your level and climbing goals. Enjoy the workout!
This is very similar to the basic workout I used when I started fingerboarding and went from 8b+ to 9a in a couple of years.
Maddy and Ollie at Lattice Training recently invited me to their HQ in Chesterfield for their finger strength and endurance testing protocol. It was fun and interesting to see how I compare to their ever growing database of high level climbers for these basic measures of strength and endurance. As you can see in the video, it yielded a couple of surprising results for me and a little food for thought for my general approach to climbing goals in the future.
Many of you are getting to grips with the hangboard for the first time right now. Here is a deep dive on most of the priorities to think about to get the most out of the tool and stay uninjured. My Hangboard: The Edge.
In this video I reference a review of studies comparing high and low loads for strength training. If you would like to read the study, it is here.
Lots of you buy my Edge Hangboard together with one or both of my books. For a few days we are running a bundle discount - all three together for GBP140, saving GBP24. Shipping worldwide as usual. We'll run it for a few days or while the current stock of the Edge lasts. You'll find it here.
"What gets measured, gets managed". Measuring aspects of performance in sport is a good thing, but only if you are measuring the right things and interpreting the data correctly. In this vlog, I draw attention to potential problems with performance metrics in climbing, especially related to basic finger strength, both at an individual level and with normative group data.