In June I had my fourth ankle surgery. I managed to get back to climbing E10 in a few months with a few key strategies and tactics I describe in this video.
Videos of Robbie’s first ascent and my second ascent on the same day of What we do in the Shadows E10 at Duntelchaig. This was a project we tried together a fair bit during the autumn of 2020 and then came together for both of us last month on a great climbing day.
Trying out the new Laspo Kneepad for the first time the other day, on the E10 project at Duntelchaig.
One of the things I’ve been meaning to do for a while is make a video about how to kneebar and what makes a good kneepad. I made my first kneepad in 2008 and have a pretty big selection of them. As with rock shoes, I still do tend to use all of them once in a while for different specific use cases. All kneebars are different and getting the right pad makes a huge difference in how long you can stay in the rest and how relaxed you can be in it.
Like many folk, for a few years I’ve mostly used the Send pads which are quite good and very convenient to use and last really well. But I’m always on the hunt for something better and so was excited when I saw that La Sportiva were bringing out a pad. I had actually been toying with the idea of designing and making a pad myself, since there is still no perfect pad out there. Unfortunately the new Sportiva Laspo pad wasn’t available for ages but have just come back into stock. So as well as ordering a set for myself, I bought some in for my shop for you guys to try. They are available now, right here.
I’ve only had a chance to try them once but that went well! There is a crucial kneebar on the E10 project I’ve been trying with Robbie Phillips. With the Send pad I worked up to getting 6 seconds hands off, which was definitely worth it. But trying the Laspo, I could immediately get 14 seconds off which obviously makes a big difference. Just one data point. But it’s a good one! I’ll do a full review of the pad in my knee barring video soon. But so far I think this is the best one I’ve tried.
