My research questionnaire: https://glasgow-research.onlinesurveys.ac.uk/dietary-patterns-of-rock-climbers THANK YOU so much for your time to participate. Note that the questionnaire will only be live for a short time in July 2020.

In the video I above I discuss some thoughts on my own study of nutrition over the past few years and the research I’m currently doing. To complete the research I need your help and I’m asking climbers over 16 who climb regularly to complete a questionnaire about their diet.

The speech by Austin Bradford Hill I mentioned in the post is here:

HILL, A. B. 1965. THE ENVIRONMENT AND DISEASE: ASSOCIATION OR CAUSATION? Proceedings of the Royal Society of Medicine, 58, 295-300. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/14283879/

More information about how to participate in the brief video below:

I plateaued at around 7C+ boulder/8b sport for quite a few years in my twenties. Then I made a jump to 8c and then 9a in a surprisingly short period of time. In this episode I go through what I did. Yes it involved a hangboard! I'm not sure my intervention would have the same effect on most climbers these days, but I will suggest some other equally important training for climbing that should reach the same place.

A decent discussion of the principles I apply to structure my bouldering sessions, both during lockdown and at any other time.

Many of you are getting to grips with the hangboard for the first time right now. Here is a deep dive on most of the priorities to think about to get the most out of the tool and stay uninjured. My Hangboard: The Edge.

In this video I reference a review of studies comparing high and low loads for strength training. If you would like to read the study, it is here.

In an age of lots of information about training for climbing, so many either get injured or fail to make progress because of the basics. Right now, as I come back from an injury, I am building a foundation of physical capability. A foundation of sleep, recovery, gradually increasing load and consistency.

A core principle of doing well in sport (or other things) is to find ways to turn bad circumstances large and small to your advantage as much as possible. So many training decision pathways start from this principle, or at least should do.

I got injured. So what do I do now? Some ideas for how to manage the recovery.

Its taken a while but we had a big delivery of Edge Hangboards today. Thanks to everyone who waited patiently. UK orders will go out tomorrow.

https://www.davemacleod.com/shop/edge

Over the coming weeks I’ll be discussing my thoughts on hang boarding during the current lockdown situation and the routines I use. They are quite simple really.

Due to the current situation we are only shipping to the UK at the moment. As soon as we can be confident that international post services are running a reliable service we’ll restart international shipping.

I have spent a long time perfecting how to send hard projects which are above my level. Here are five of the most significant top level factors that I use constantly, either consciously or otherwise to make the send happen.

The warm up for climbing is fairly simple and there's no need to overcomplicate it unless you have poor conditioning or injury. But there are definitely some basics to get right. This episode (Vlog #35) goes through them.

Many of you then asked how I warm up at the crag, especially when there are few options for warming up. In this episode (Vlog 36) I warm up on the crux moves of my 9a project. Just take it step by step!

Lots of you buy my Edge Hangboard together with one or both of my books. For a few days we are running a bundle discount - all three together for GBP140, saving GBP24. Shipping worldwide as usual. We'll run it for a few days or while the current stock of the Edge lasts. You'll find it here.

People ask me over and over 'what's your secret?' to climbing hard, maintaining level into my 40s, balancing climbing with work and family etc etc. So I felt I should address this 'meta question' of secrets of training directly.